Monday, December 29, 2014

Some electrical gremlins SORTED

Pulled the headlight housing off so I could have a good gander at the wiring, as the instrument lights in the gauge cluster are not working.


The main positive wire that completes this circuit was not connected - so now it works. The high beam light was also not connected - so now it is! So once I fire up the engine again hopefully all the lights will work! Tail light now works also - night test rides are now go!Will have to wait till after work to do that!

Sunday, December 7, 2014

Happy Snap III


Wednesday, December 3, 2014

XL500S painted rims black

I am very very happy with the results so far........

Saturday, November 29, 2014

XL500S happy snap II

Last pic before we move house......

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Front guard - mount high or low ?

Sorry David - I just think it looks significantly better with a high mount front mudguard........

Sunday, November 2, 2014

Crispy XL500S lives again!


The beast lives after the rewire - just a few faults to fix YAY!

Saturday, November 1, 2014

XL500S nearly ready for inspection & registration

Wow - nearly ready to go over the pits for inspection and road registration. Need -
 - mirrors and adaptors - fuel line - fit chain guard - headlight globe - adjust chain - weld up side stand as I have cut it shorter to suit smaller wheels - rear brake switch spring link - adjust rear brake - adjust clutch - check major nuts bolts - exhaust paint and wrap - tail light not working - speedo indicator lights not working - check tyre pressures - fit side panels - quieter muffler? - front guard high mount

Friday, October 31, 2014

XL500S Rewire is complete!!!

 The rewiring is complete - showing headlight housing.....
 Ignition key mounted in place.....
 Main wiring harness and flasher relay....
 Box with the cream panel at top left is the 6 volt to 12 volt converter to power gauges....
 Rear lighting harness......
Speedometer seems to work and is calibrated for 25 inch diameter tyre. We have a nice healthy blue spark, so we are ready for a test start.....

Sunday, October 26, 2014

Danmoto SP4 speedo sender installation

I decided to mount the speedo sender to the rear wheel because its a neater looking install. The sender is mounted via a new hole in the brake torque arm (at top right of this pic).
The speedo sender mounted in place on the wheel.
The magnet will be glued in place on the spoke flange between  two spokes.
And here is everything mounted in place. Looks neat! All that is needed to operate is progamming the wheel diameter in, which is 25 inches and it works!




Saturday, October 11, 2014

Front wheel cover

The cush drive side of the now front wheel needs to be covered as its just plain ugly. So I purchased this enfield seven inch brake plate for $15 and modified it to fit.



I made a much larger hole in the middle to clear the bearing area and bolted it through from the brake drum side. And made some threaded bushes which I cut off from the back of the new part!

Just needs to be painted........

Key ignition switch mounting in headlight mounting ear





I was wondering where to mount the key switch? The new headlight brackets are positioned in a convieient place and have holes in them already. So I just needed to make one of holes slightly larger and voila, its done!

Front mudguard mount using pergola brackets & chain

Step 1 - buy some pergola brackets from bunnings,costing 4 x 60c = $2.40

Glue two together back to back with epoxy glue. Then drill some mounting holes in the channel shaped brackets, they are counter sunk to clear the tyre.

I had some chain off-cuts which I bolted to the mudguard. You can see above where the holes will go to bolt the chain to the channel shaped brackets.

You can see here it is all bolted up in the correct position.

Now all I had to do was trim off the brackets so it looks nice and neat. And we are done.





Saturday, September 27, 2014

Front mudguard mounting

Popular opinion (my wife & David) say the front mudguard should be mounted low and not high as I originally intended. Also the CB750 lower triple clamp has no holes for mounting of the guard up high! Just need to figure our a way to mount it to the fork legs. Maybe using some 520 chain and brackets!

Front brake is functional.........at last


I am very pleased to say the we have a fully functioning front brake! The RM250Z front brake cable that I bought originally just had to have it's outer cable shortened by about 100mm. This is possible to do, by carefully grinding down one side of the outer with a grinder till the inner cable is exposed and the carefully (read incredibly laboriously) remove the small sections of outer cable. This is because the inner cable is the right length, and I do not want to remove the crimped end! Anyway I am very happy with the results, the handlebar lever feels really nice and firm. The cable mounts to the same place as the XL500 and is routed through the lower triple clamp like the CB750. I fashioned a pin from an old 12mm axle to attach the end of the cable to the actuator - see pic below.

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Rewire continued.......


Definitely my least favorite job (but an important one) is the rewiring. I wasn't happy where the harness was just behind the tank as it is very close to the throttle cables! So after a bit of google image searching I found an image showing the harness going from left to right just behind the tank. Top pic also shows the new horn mounted up.

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

How to make your custom project cafe racer bobber motorcycle a success


Think of a dollar amount and double it             
 It's very important to start with the best possible bike you can afford. I think that ideally the bike needs to be in running condition and mostly complete. I have made the mistake of buying a motorcycle (about 1 and a half motorcycles actually) in pieces only to find that the motor was toast and not worth repairing. I paid $368 for this Suzuki 400 (see pic below) on eBay which was in pieces and with many spares, most of which were worn out or junk, luckily I sold it off in parts and made my money back, and most of  the custom parts could be used on my next project. My current project a Honda 500 runs well and is 90% complete, so I could test ride it, only cost me $750. A motorcycle like any other vehicle is worth more in parts than as a whole. Do a quick search on spare parts prices and you will see this. Even a free motorcycle can cost more to finish than that bike you paid $1000 for. A free motorcycle is such probably because it is junk.

Find a bike that is partially realised
See if you can find a project bike that someone has started that fits your design scheme. There are  many reasons why people sell off unfinished projects. People lose interest, realise they are out of their depth, have a change in circumstances like they need cash or move to a place where there is no area to work . Just take a read on your local online classifieds and you will see all the reasons covered.
Don't get in over your head
 Make sure you choose a project that you can complete with your level of skill. If you have to pay someone or a shop to do most of the work - then it's going to be very costly. A visit to your local custom motorcycle store with a how much will this cost question will give you an idea? Spend hours and hours trawling eBay and forums for ideas and methods to achieve your end result. My vintage supermoto Honda XL500S has only one custom made part on it, but it was not by accident, I did loads and loads of research and spent hours trawling online forums etc for information.
Pick the right style of bike as a starting point
Pick the appropriate motorcycle for your project. Cafe racers are a very popular project idea at the moment and seem like an easy conversion, but a sports bike with a perimeter frame will never look like a cafe racer. I saw on a forum recently that someone had bought a Kawasaki ZZR250 for the conversion to a cafe racer, but even with the right tank etc it just doesn't look right due to its frame being the wrong shape.
Modifying your motorcycle and the law
Which brings me to my next point. Modifying motorcycles can lead to major hassles come inspection time, when trying to get a motorcycle re-registered or if you are stopped by the local constabulary questioning if your mods are street legal. Simple things like lengths of mudguards can be easily fixed, but illegal frame modifications cannot. For example as a rule of thumb, you can modify the frame from behind the rear shock mounts without an engineer's certificate, but any mods forward of that will require one (and they are very expensive to obtain - read many thousands of dollars).
Due dilligence
 When you have found a suitable motorcycle, do your due diligence. Check the frame and engine numbers to be certain it is not stolen, has no finance outstanding on it and is not a write-off. Usually this can be done online or over the phone with your local licensing authority. If you are buying a registered bike, then still check that the frame and engine numbers match those on the registration papers.
Have a suitable work area set aside
 Once you get the motorcycle home, make sure you have a spot where it can be left, preferably under shelter, so you can work on its easy. Take your time and work on it at least a couple of times a week. At first you're as keen as mustard, but after six months and a few setbacks you may be less keen. I like to work on my bikes straight after work for at least half an hour a few times a week. You have also got to consider your neighbours, as they will not like you cutting down your frame at 9pm in the evening! And be patient! Wait for the anti-seize to soak in before a second attempt at removing that stubborn bolt or nut. Just sit for ten minutes admiring your work or visualising what it could be, while the anti-seize does its work.

How I do mock-ups in Photoshop
                Speaking of visualizing, I do all of my mock ups on Photoshop. The important thing is to make sure that all the different parts are to scale. I do an Google image search and find a side view of the motorcycle I will be customising. The larger the image the better, an image that is only 640x480 is not really big enough to show much detail, 1640x1480 is what I would use as a minimum. How do you check everything is to scale? I use the motorcycle's wheel base as the starting point, because you can see it easily. Just measure between the front and rear axle nuts. Do a search for your motorcycle specifications and it will appear, typically it will be around 1500mm. Photoshop has rulers so you can scale it up or down to suit. See the image below for my example. I am using pixels as a unit of measure in the below example and then dividing it by ten. You can see this by the guides I have placed (2 x cyan coloured vertical lines) at about 1400mm.


Tuesday, September 2, 2014

How to make a rear wheel a front wheel - part 2




After grinding down the brake plate at the axle, the wheel is now centred in between the fork legs! The spacer on the opposite side now fits and is the correct width. The cover over the cush drive area needs a tidy up to make it look nice and the threaded bushes holding it on need to be made shorter to create more clearance on the fork leg........

Sunday, August 24, 2014

How to make a motorcycle rear wheel a front

This is how the brake plate is as a rear wheel......
.....first you must cut off the torque arm.....
......and then cut two slots to accept the keeper plates.......
......then figure out and mark up the piece of 40x10 aluminium flat bar and then spend hours and hours whittling it down to the right shape so it does not interfere with anything inside the brake drum......
.....now the keeper plates fit nicely and snuggly into the slots, ready for TIG welding. This set-up mimics the stock XL500 front brake set-up......
 You can see from this image where the new keepers will be welded at the back as well......
 Side view of keeper plates......

Front view of set up......
thanks to Justin @ 66 Motorcycles for doing a nice welding job.......
....and after a little cleaning up its ready for polish or paint?